Peru

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Learning Through Travel

The official name of the country is "The Republic of Peru". It is the multiple layers of great civilizations that make Peru so fascinating. You can wander around colonial cities, which have preserved the legacy of the Spanish conquistadors, visit the ancient Incan capital of Cuzco, explore the lost city of Machu Picchu and ponder the enigma of the Nazca Lines. All of this exists in a country with some of the most spectacular and varied scenery in South America. The Peruvian Andes are arguably the most beautiful on the continent and the mountains are home to 9 million of highland Indians who still speak the ancient tongue of Quechua and maintain a traditional way of life. The verdant Amazon Basin, which occupies half of Peru, is on the world's top 1O-biodiversity 'hot spots" - a species rich area of tropical rainforest that will amaze you before you start to learn about its ecology.

FACTS AT A GLANCE

• Full country name: Republic of Peru

• Area: 1,285,215sp km (501,123 sq mi)

• Population: 23.4 million

• Capital city: Lima (pop: over 7 million)

• People: 54% Indian. 32% Mestizo (mixed

  European and Indian descent), 12% Spanish

  descent, 2% Black, Asian minority.

• Language: Spanish Quechua, Aymara

• Religion: Over 90% Roman Catholic,

  small Protestant population

• Government: Democracy

ENVIRONMENT:

Peru is in western South America. It shares borders with Chile (to the south), Bolivia (southeast), Brazil (northeast), Colombia (north) and Ecuador (Northwest). It has three major regions: a narrow coastal belt, the Andean mountains and the Amazon Basin. The coastal strip is predominantly desert, but contains Peru's major cities and its best highway, the Carratera Panamericana. The Andes comprise two principal ranges - Cordillera Occidental and Oriental - and includes Huascaran, Peru's highest mountain. To the east is the Amazon Basin, a region of tropical lowland, which is drained by the Maranon and Ucayali rivers. Bird and marine life is abundant along Peru's desert coast, with colonies of sea lions, the Humboldt penguin, Chilean flamingo, Peruvian pelican, Inca tern and the brown booby endemic to the region, Common highland birds include the Andean condor, puma ibis and a variety of humming bird. The highlands are also home to camellias such as the Lima, alpaca, guanaco and vicuna, while the eastern slopes of the Andes are haunts of jaguars, spectacle bears and tapirs. Peru's flora contains a number of hardy and unique plants, including patches of Polylepis woodland found at extreme heights. The vast wealth of wildlife is protected in a system of national parks and reserves with almost 30 areas covering nearly 7% of the country. Peru's climate is divided into two seasons - wet and dry- though this varies, depending on the geographical region. The coast and western Andean slopes are generally dry, with the summer falling between December and April. In the Andes, the dry season is from May to September, while the wet season takes up the remainder of the year. On the eastern slopes of the Andes, the drier months are similar to the highlands, though the wet season (January to April) is more pronounced.

HISTORY

The first inhabitants of Peru were nomadic hunter gatherers who lived in caves in Peru's coastal regions. The oldest site, Pikimachay cave, dates from 1200 BC. Crops such as cotton, beans, squash and pepper chilis were planted. Around 4000 BC: advanced cultures such as the Chavin introduced weaving, agriculture and religion to the country. Around 300 BC, the Chavin inexplicably disappeared, but over the centuries, several other cultures

- including the Salinar, Nazca, Paracas Necropolis and Wari (Huari) - became locally important. By the early 15th

century, the Inca Empire had control of much of the area, even extending its influence into Colombia and Chile, Between 1526-28, the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro explored Peru's coastal regions, and drawn by the riches of the Inca empire, returned to Spain to raise money and recruit men for another expedition of the country. Return he did, marching into Cajamarca, in northern Peru, before capturing, ransoming and executing the Inca emperorAtahualpa in 1533. Pizarro subsequently founded the city of Lima in 1535 but was assassinated six years later. The rebellion of the Inca leader, Manco Inca, ended ingloriously with his beheading in 1572. The next 200 years proved peaceful, with Lima becoming the major political, social and commercial center of the Andean nations. However, the exploitation of Indians by their colonial masters led to an uprising in 1780 under the self styled Inca Tupac Amaru II. The rebellion was short-lived and most of the leaders were rounded up and executed. Peru continued to remain loyal to Spain until 1824 when two outsiders liberated the country. The Venezuelan Simon Bolivar and the Argentinean Jose de San Martin. In 1866, Peru won a brief war with Spain but was humiliated by Chile in the War of the Pacific (1879-83), which resulted in the loss of lucrative nitrate fields in the northern Atacama Desert.

WHAT TO SEE:

LIMA

Peru has many wonderful ancient archaeological sites as well as museums. In Lima you will find the Museo de Oro del Peru, which has numerous artifacts of gold, silver and precious stones, and the Museo Nacional de Antrpoligia y Arquelogia, which is noted for its excellent exhibits of prehistoric Peru. Churches such as San Francisco (famous for its catacombs) and Santo Domingo (circa 1540) provide a welcome respite from Lima's many markets, including Polvos Azules, overflow with consumer handicrafts. There are also plazas, lovely colonial buildings and a zoo. The suburb of Barranco has a number of low-cost restaurants and live music venues and is very popular with back packers. The suburb of Mira Flores has the city's best stores, restaurants and night spots. The South Coast the Pan-American highway hugs the coast and passes through many areas of interest south of Lima, including Pisco, a small fishing port used by travelers as a base to see the wildlife of the nearby Islas Ballestas and Penninsula de Paracas. The area is historical and archaeological interest, with burial sites of the Paracas culture a major lure. Further south is the town of Nazca known for its colorful and elaborate pottery and the world famous Nazca Lines - huge geometric designs, mostly of animals and birds - which are thought to have been built between 900 BC and 600 AD. The designs are only visible from the air but there are numerous flights over the area. Arequipa and Lake Titicaca nick named the 'white city; spectacular mountains surround Arequipa, including the volcano EI Misti. A feature of the city is its many beautiful buildings made of light colored volcanic rock called sillar. The Convention de Sanyta Catalina, perhaps the most fascinating colonial religious building in the country, was, until recently, home to almost 450 nuns. Many of the city's  beautiful colonial houses, such as Casa Ricketts, are now used as art galleries or museums. The Colca Canyon arguably the world's deepest canyon is a popular excursion from Arequipa. Lake Titicaca, at 3820m (12,530ft), is the highest navigable lake in the world. At over 170km (1 05mi) long, it is also the largest lake in South America. Its altitude means the air is unusually clear and the azure waters particularly striking, interesting boat trips can be made from Puno, the major port on the lake. The area is also known for its folk dances and huge herds of alpacas of lama.

CUSCO

The archaeological capital of the Americas and the oldest continuously inhabited city on the continent. Cusco is now an important link in the South American travel network. Its legacy as the hub of the Inca Empire is readily apparent: most of the city streets are lined with Inca-built stonewalls. The city has magnificent repositories of colonial art such as the cathedral (begun in 1559) and La Merced Church, there is also the Coricancha ruins, east of the city center, which were formerly covered with gold (the stonework is all that remains). In addition, the Museo de Arqueologia, the interior of which is filled with metal and gold work, jewelry, pottery textiles and mummies. Four other ruins nearby and a must to see are Saccayhuaman, Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay.

MACHU PICCHU

The ruins of Machu Picchu, rediscovered in 1911 by Yale archaeologist Hiram Bingham, are one of the most beautiful and enigmatic ancient sites in the world. While the Inca people certainly used the Andean mountain top (9060 feet elevation), erecting many hundreds of stone structures from the early 1400's, legends and myths indicate that Machu Picchu (meaning 'Old Peak' in the Quechua language) was revered as a sacred place from a far earlier time. Whatever its origins, the Incas turned the site into a small (5 square miles) but extraordinary city. Invisible from below and completely self-contained, surrounded by agricultural terraces sufficient to feed the population, and watered by natural springs, Machu Picchu seems to have been utilized by the Incas as a secret ceremonial city. Two thousand feet above the rumbling Urubamba River, the cloud shrouded ruins have palaces, baths, temples, storage rooms and some 150 houses, all in a remarkable state of preservation. These structures, carved from the gray granite of the mountaintop are wonders of both architectural and aesthetic genius. Many of the building blocks weigh 50 tons or more yet are so precisely sculpted and fitted together with such exactitude that the mortarless joints will not permit the insertion of even a thin knife blade. Little is known of the social or religious use of the site during Inca times. The skeletal remains of ten females to one male had led to the casual assumption that the site may have been a sanctuary for the training of priestesses and, or brides for the Inca nobility. However, subsequent osteological examination of the bones revealed an equal number of male bones, thereby indicating that Machu Picchu was not exclusively a temple or dwelling place of women. One of Machu Picchu's primary functions was that of astronomical observatory. The lntihuatana stone (meaning 'Hitching Post of the Sun') has been shown to be a precise indicator of the date of the two equinoxes and other significant celestial periods. The Intihuatana (also called the Saywa or Sukhanka stone) is designed to hitch the sun at the two equinoxes, not at the solstice (as is stated in some tourist literature and new age books). At midday on March 21 st and September 21 st, the sun stands almost directly above the pillar, creating no shadow at all. At this precise moment, the sun "sits with all his might upon the pillar" and is for a moment "tied" to the rock. At these periods, the Incas held ceremonies at the stone in which they "tied the sun" to halt its northward movement in the sky. There is also an lntihuatana alignment with the December solstice (the summer solstice of the southern hemisphere), when at sunset the sun sinks behind Pumasillo (the Puma's claw), the most sacred mountain ofthe western Vileabamba range, but the shrine itself is primarily equinoctial. Shamanic legends say that when sensitive persons touch their foreheads to the stone, the Intihuatana opens one's vision to the spirit world. Intihuatana stones were the supremely sacred objects of the Inca people and were systematically searched for and destroyed by the Spaniards. When the lntihuatana stone was broken at an Inca shrine, the Inca believed that the deities of the place died or departed. The Spaniards never found Machu Picchu, even though they suspected its existence, thus the Intihuatana stone and its resident spirits remain in their original position. The mountain top sanctuary fell into disuse and was abandoned some forty years after the Spanish took Cuzco in 1533. Supply lines linking the many Inca social centers were disrupted and the great empire ended. Partway down the northern side of Wayna Picchu is the so-called "Temple ofthe Moon" inside a cavern.

WEATHER

Peru is the third largest country in Latin America with a large variety of climates.

COAST

The winter is from May through October. The average temperature in this season is around 55F. Usually a sweater is enough to keep warm. The summer is from November through April. The average temperature is 85F. During the summer, very light and casual clothing is recommended in addition to a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.

HIGHLANDS

Temperature ranges from 65F during the day to 30F at night. The rainy season lasts from Decemberto March. For the evenings, a good sweater and maybe a jacket will be required.

JUNGLE

Hot and humid with showers all year round. Light clothing and an umbrella is recommended.

PASSPORT & VISA REQUIREMENTS

A valid passport is required for entry into Peru and should be valid for six months after your return date. No visa is required for a stay of up to 90 days for passport holders of the United States and Canada: notable exceptions are New Zealanders and Spaniards. Please check with your local consulate.

ALTITUDE

Peru offers a great diversity of altitudes, and the phenomenon known as altitude sickness is quite common. There are no specific factors such as age, sex, or physical condition that correlates with susceptibility to altitude sickness. Some people get it and some people do not, and some people may experience it one visit and not the next time. Symptoms include headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, lack of concentration, nausea, swelling of ankles, and in extreme cases, hallucination. Avoid alcohol, cigarettes, heavy food and strenuous physical activity. Citrus fruit and bananas may diminish the effects. If you do not feel well, take it easy. Put your feet up, drink plenty of clean (boiled or bottled) water, and take a siesta after lunch.

HEALTH

Please speak with your physician before traveling to Peru. They know you best and will make the necessary suggestions. No inoculations are required for entry into Peru. If traveling within the Amazon to-date tetanus and

hepatitisAand B shots are strongly recommended, and all travelers should consult with their physician regarding malaria prophylaxis. Malaria is common in many parts of the Peruvian Amazon. Yellow fever is much rarer, and unlikely to be encountered. Bring sufficient quantities of prescription medications, as well as a basic first-aid kit (anti-histamine [for insect bites or allergies], antacid, antidiarrhea's, antibiotic topical cream, anti-nausea/motion

sickness, etc.) Your doctor may also prescribe a strong systemic antibiotic for use in the event of serious intestinal upset. However, because of the high altitudes in parts of Peru, passengers with heart conditions or high blood pressure should consult with their doctors before traveling. Travel insurance is strongly suggested and information will be provided in yourwelcome packet.

BEFORE YOU GO- SHAPING UP

To enjoy your trip to the fullest, you should be in good physical and mental health. Your exploration of Peru and the Amazon will include some nature walks, some strenuous and at rather high altitudes or humidity levels. These walks could last several hours but are given at a decent pace in order to closely examine the flora and fauna of the area. Always bring along water, bug repellant and a good hat to protect yourself during these adventures.

ELECTRICITY220V, 60Hz

SHOPPING

Handcrafted items are very characteristic of Peru. Native Indians using ancient methods make woven rugs, tapestries, alpaca sweater, ponchos, jewelry and many other products using materials such as leather, copper, silver, wood. These items are displayed at the Indian markets and sold at a very reasonable price. Shopping centers and other stores are also found in the downtown, and commercial areas.

CALLING TO PERU

Dialing codes International country code: + 51 (Peru)

MONEY:

Currency in Peru is Soles. There are ATM cash machines in every city where you can withdraw cash from your Visa or MasterCard. Visa is the recommended credit card. Costs in Peru are lower, on average, than those in

developed countries, but higher than those in many neighboring countries. The easiest currency to exchange

is US dollars. Other currency is exchangeable in major cities. Money can be exchanged in banks, Casas

Decambio's and hotels. Traveler's checks are changed at a slightly lower rate than cash. Bargaining is accepted and expected in markets.

TIME:

Peru is the same time as Eastern Standard Time.

To check for your time zone please check

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock

TIPPING

A tip between 10-15% is fine in up market restaurants, if a service charge has not already been added to the bill. It is not customary to tip cab drivers. Tips are at your discretion and the amount given should reflect your satisfaction with the service. Following is a suggested guideline for your hosts in Peru, when planning your tipping budget please keep in mind that the guides and transfer people make their living providing services and strive to offer you the best services possible. Local Guide: $6.00 per person per day, Escort $3.00 per day, Transfer personnel: $2.00 per person per transfer, Local driver: $2.00 per person per day,

FOOD AND WATER

It is strongly suggested that you drink only bottled water. Stops will be made at local stores to purchase water (your program may include 1 large bottle of water per day). You do not have to carry bottled water from home. Due to security restrictions at airports you do not want to carry anything extra heavy or unnecessary. Do not drink tap water, despite signs posted in hotels. Avoid using ice cubes as well. You will require considerably more liquid than you normally do. Always be sure to open your own bottle of water, or have the wait staff do it in front of you. Never accept a bottle of water that has already been opened. Avoid eating raw vegetables, fruits that you

cannot peel, and food from street vendors. Hot pepper and garlic flavor most Peruvian food. Typical dishes include chupe de camarones, a chowder-like soup made from shrimps, eggs, cream, potatoes and peppers, sopa criolla (spicy soup with beef and noodles), and Anticuchos - beef or fish marinated in vinegar and spices, then barbecued. If any of the aforementioned is not part of your diet please let LTT know in advance so special arrangements can be made for your meals. Most Peruvians are confused by the vegetarian diet. People in the Amazon region eat fish on a daily basis, and regularly eat meat and poultry products. It is difficult, but not impossible, to find a good selection of purely vegetarian dishes, but do not expect to have the range of choices you

may have at home. Be prepared to be a little bit flexible when it comes to diet, and be willing to try some new things.

CLOTHES

It is best to dress in layers that can be shed as the day really heats up. Essentials include light-colored cotton pants, shorts and shirts, bathing suit, good, rubber-soled walking shoes or sandals, a wide-brimmed hat, a light raincoat or windbreaker. This type of clothing is practical and widely available through local merchants. You may want to carry a small supply of detergent for hand laundry. Most hotels do no have safe boxes. You are on an

adventure trip and it is highly recommended that you leave all valuables at home. Do not bring good jewelry or expensive computer equipment that you cannot carry with you.

RECOMMENDED PACKING LIST:

• Small backpack to take while exploring

• Asmall flashlight

• Adapter plugs and converters

• Packaged wet tissues ("Wash & Dry" "Wet Ones")

• Atiny calculator for estimating cost while shopping

• Plenty of film or tape for your camera + extra batteries or recharges

• Good quality sunglasses - preferably polarized.

• Sun hat with a brim

• Good walking shoes (running/tennis shoes or broken-in hiking shoes are fine)

• Sandals or rubberflip/flops for poolside

• Jacket or sweater for cooler mornings or evenings

• Light rain gear

• If you wear contact lenses, we recommend that you bring along a pair of glasses

• Personal toiletries

• Moisturizing cream &suntan lotion

• Insect repellent e.g. Off!, Jungle Juice, etc

• Tickets, passports, money etc

• Waterproof bags/cover for your cameras

• Small Spanish/English dictionary

BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE:

The allowance on your international flights is two pieces of luggage, each weighing 70 pounds. The baggage limit on domestic flights is one piece at 50 Ibs. per person (plus a carry-on bag.) Carry on Baggage Rules: Customers may carry through security checkpoints travel-size toiletries (3 ounces or less) that fit comfortable in a single, quart size, clear plastic, zip-top bag. After clearing security, customers may bring beverages and other items purchased in the secure boarding area on-board aircraft. Larger amounts of prescription liquid medications baby formula and diabetic glucose treatments must be declared at the checkpoint for additional screening.Equally important is the size and structure of the bags. Soft luggage (canvas, fabric or duffel bags) about 24" X 17" X 7" are ideal. It is recommended that you only take 1 piece of luggage and a carry-on. You will be doing a fair amount of travel, so it is best to pack as light as possible.

RECOMMENDED READING

• Ronald Wright's Cut Stones and Crossroads: a Journey into the 'Two World's of Peru' is a fine travel book by a

  writer exceptionally well informed on both archaeological and contemporary issues.

• For an interesting account of the conquistadors, see James Lockhart's 'The Men of Cajamarca'.

• Mario Vargas LIosa, author of Aunt Julia and the Scriptwriter, among others, is the best-known Peruvian

  novelist.

• Inca Kola a traveler's tale of Peru by Matthew Parris is a readable travelogue of a visit to Peru with a

  group of friends.

• Nicholas Shakespeare's article 'In Search of Guzman' in: The Best of Granta Travel is a brief but interesting

  account of a quest to meet the elusive leader of Shining Path. His novel 'The Vision of Elena Silves' neatly fuse

  the romance and the political thriller.

• AnthonyAveni, Between the Lines, 2000 - One ofthe world's experts addresses "the mystery of the giant

  ground drawings of ancient Nazca, Peru. .. Aveni has solicited the input of "archeologists, anthropologists,

  engineers, and surveyors," and believes he has found a believable how, when and where for the Nazca

  lines, while having less success with the underlying question: "Why move tons of dirt and stone around on

  a desolate landscape for no apparent reason?

• Hans Baumann, GoldandGods ofPeru, 1963-A good introduction to the civilization and religion of the

  Incas. Oxford UniversityPress edition, well illustrated.

• Carmen Bernand, The Incas: People ofthe Sun, 1994 Part of Abrams' Discoveries series, a very accessible

  overview of Inca history,achievements, and life. Presented in the popular heavily-illustrated manner that caters   to modern readers' distractability.

· Hiram Bingham, Lost City of the Incas: The Story of Machu Picchu andIts Builders, 1948 Classic lost-city-in-

  the-jungle adventure by the man who rediscovered Machu Picchu in 1911. The 'discovery' consisted largely

  of taking the word of locals who were farming some of the terraces. Bingham's tribute plaque at

  MachuPicchu sidesteps controversy by calling him the "scientific discoverer." But it'sstill a good story.

• Barbara Bode, No Bells to Toll: Destruction and Creation in the Andes, 1989 Anthropologist Bode

  examines the physical and psychological impact of the 1970 earthquake that took more than 75,000 lives in

  Peru's Callejon de Huaylos. A much closer and more human treatment than you'd expect from

  something growing out of an academic dissertation.

• BarryBrukoffandPablo Neruda, Machu Picchu, 2001 A beautiful book that combines Brukoff's sepia

  photographs with Neruda's poetry, in a bilingual format. A good complement to the guidebooks, with more

  art and atmosphere.

• W. Byford-Jones, Four Faces ofPeru, 1967- The Inca realm was the Kingdom of the Four Quarters, and

  Byford-Jones divides contemporary Peru into four sections as well: Lima, the Andes, the desert coast,

  and theAmazon. A lively travelogue, full of people and incident.

• Ethan Hubbard, Journey to Ollantayfambo: In the Sacred Valley ofthe Incas, 1990. A photographer/traveller

  goes to the last of the continuously inhabited Inca villages, and finds Mystics, shamans, and charlatans to

  catch his own interest and the reader's

• Insight Guide Peru

• Insight Guides

• Lonely Planet Guide Book

  A Field Guide to the Birds of Peru

• James Clements

• NoamShany

• Dana Gardner

• Eustace Barnes

• FIELD GUIDE

  A comprehensive field guide to

  the birds of Peru, featuring 127

  color plates and illustrating almost

  1,800 species, focusing on their

  identification, habitat, and

  distribution

ALTITUDE CHART:

Location   Altitude (feet)

Cusco         11,150

lquitos                   413

Lima                        0

Machu Picchu    9,337

Nazca                     1,929

Paracas                  75

Yucay                     9,727